If you spend any amount of time on the highway, two things are almost mandatory to improve gas mileage...an AOD transmission, and a cruise control.

Since they all work identitically in pre-late-80's vehicles...a driveshaft magnet sends an RPM signal to the controller...it was only a question of how much quality I wanted.

There are two types of controllers. One mounts on the turn signal lever, and the other, of which there are several varieties, mounts just about anywhere...in the dash, or using a bracket, beneath it.

I prefer the in the dash model, so I looked for the smallest controller available. I found the Audiovox CCS-100 at J. C. Whitney, although I found out later, it can be purchased for less elsewhere.

Installing it IN the instrument cluster bezel makes for a more time consuming installation, because you'll want to have the ability to remove the cluster for service, requiring you to create a pull-apart, inline harness. And finding one that was small enough was easier than I expected...on ebay for about $4. They're actually made for computers, with about 18" of 18-gauge wire, and gold-plated connectors.

Begin by removing the bezel. It's held in by Phillips-head screws at the top and bottom. Select a mounting location...the lower left-hand corner is the most convenient. Using the template provided, drill two ¼" holes, and trim the excess between them, making a ¼" wide slot.

Feed the controller wiring harness (six wires) through, then carefully attach the controller using the provided 3M tape.

Use the smaller (male) end of the harness as a template, and drill a hole large enough for it to pass through the dash. If you're mounting it like the example, there's already a hole there, and it only needs to be enlarged. Work slowly, and test-fit several times.

Once the plug passes through freely, it's time to make the connections. I chose soldering and heat shrink vs. using butt connectors. Soldering makes a more positive connection, and is worth the extra effort.

Since four of the harness wire colors matched that of the Audiovox harness, it was a not-very-confusing wiring diagram, but I still wrote it down. I cut the Audiovox harness about 7" from the dash bezel. Cut six short lengths of heat shrink, and slip them over the harness wires BEFORE you begin soldering. Then solder a connection, slip the heat shrink over it, and shrink it before you solder the next wire. A couple wraps of electrical tape will hold it all together.

Solder and shrink the other end of the harness in the same manner. Although I didn't do it to the dash connection end, I put a large piece of heat shrink over all six wires on the other end of the harness first. Once the harness was soldered and heat shrunk, I slipped the larger piece of heat shrink over all the connections, and shrunk that. It held the wires together nicely, and I should have done it at BOTH connections.

The harness is now done. Take the cluster bezel, and re-install it, feeding the male end of the harness through the hole. Locate it under the dash, and pull it the rest of the way through, drawing the bezel tight against the mounting holes. Re-install the bezel screws, and attach the female end of the harness to the male end. If need be, the harzess can be zip-tied in the area of the parking brake. Should you ever need to remove the cluster, it's just a matter of disconnecting the wiring harness.

Now it's time to install the unit (coming soon).